AGRA
Shah Jehan had the
standard number of 4 wives and n concubines, but Mahal was his favourite.
She only left his side to bear him 13 children. She died bearing the
14th but on her deathbed asked him
1 to build a memorial to her
2 not to remarry
3 to sort out their argumentative sons.
He scored two out of
three. Taj Mahal, the Palace of Mahal, Mahal, the jewel of the court,
the palace of the Jewel. She got the most wonderful memorial. Sparkling
white marble, it is much bigger than I expected. Beautiful proportioned.
The majority of the decorations are relief's cut into the marble. He
did not use precious stones, anticipating the British Army. Built of
the banks of the river Yamua he calculated possible flood levels accurately
for 400 years. Rivers in India move, but a wall on the far bank ensures
the Taj stays on the river bank. The entrances are decorated in prayers
from the Koran. The size of the script increases with wall height so
it all appears even. The setting in three gardens with a rectangular
lake is heavenly. Sitting and contemplating is a most uplifting experience.
The paint throwing delay means that Rik has no time to take the party
to the Red Fort but can still make it to the marble selling emporium.
Ah the power of commission. They do make some beautiful stuff, an employee
demonstrating semi precious stone making smuggles me a small heart but
the shop does OK because we buy three items. We bid the party farewell
and start on our 7 day time out. Rik has stressed that 1 day is more
than sufficient for Agra.
Its Tuesday, Steve and Karen are not expected until Friday we dine on
the hotel's poor international; buffet and watch old movies. Meg's bed
has been too hard so we swap. Mossi nets are superfluous to requirements.
Breakfast is better but not really up to exploitation due to the fact
that we are making an early start walking to the Red Fort that Rik considered
hardly worth a visit. The fact that we intend to walk is beyond the
comprehension of the rickshaw, mororised rickshaw and taxi drivers who
kerb crawl alongside us for the entire two miles. To be honest though
the walk is easy it is also quite unpleasant. We pass an arid golf course
en route.
Rik was in error! The Red Fort is massive and magnificent. Kilometres
of double and treble sandstone fortifications protect a series of marble
temples recessed and inlaid extravagantly, but the result is elegant
rather than baroque. There is a courtyard in which they used to fish
in ponds and canals. Another paved in octagonal marble on which the
Shah played a board game using dancing girls as pieces. A monkey tries
to snatch my carrier bag. The only attempt to rob us so far. The area
facing the Taj Mahal is where Shah Jehan was imprisoned for the last
year of his life by his youngest son after he had killed all his elder
brothers. Keeping a careful eye out for monkeys we meet three Indian
lads who want their photo taken with Meg. We evade the disbelieving
rickshaws and stroll back through the park. The Mugal restaurant in
the Clark-Shiraz is one of Agra's finest, on the only rooftop with a
view of the Taj. However as they do not floodlight the Taj it is only
visible in daylight. The standard is good but I still cannot appreciate
it, expensive too.
Meg wants a 04-45 call to go and see the Taj at dawn. We auto rickshaw
down and join the handful of humanity queuing at the entrance.
It is simply magic. One of the things you must do if at all possible.
We rickshaw round the bazaars and probably make our driver deliriously
happy by buying Meg a star ruby pendant. The star ruby is a stone only
produced in this part of the world. In light a bright pinprick of star
like light glows inside it.
We take a put put to Itmah-Ud-Daulah the tomb of Mirza Beg and designed
by his daughter who later was the most powerful woman in Mogul history.
She did a good job and its style and elegance would be far better known
if it were somewhere other than up stream of the Taj Mahal. In fact
I remember the journey to it more than the tomb itself. The put put
speeds along unmade roads generating clouds of red dust. We cross the
river Yamuna by a single track bridge several hundred yards long exactly
how the priority is determined remains a mystery. We cut swathes through
the population but give way to the animals. It is the nearest thing
to a James Bond chase we have ever experienced.
We loaf around the pool after lunch chatting to other tourists when
suddenly Karen and Steve appear one day early.
We seriously disturb the peace of the sunbathers with our exuberant
greetings. They look very fit but apart from that, exactly as they did
when they set off on their honeymoon in September last year. The news
flows thick and fast in disjointed and soon forgotten fragments. We
will take it all in at our leisure later. In our room we consume the
beers acquired for the occasion and realise we will have to rise early
to visit the Taj at dawn again tomorrow. We stroll the 100 metres to
the local restaurant. Saleem a rickshaw driver tracks us all the way
and asks if he can drive us though the gate as the restaurant will give
him a free drink. I suspect they will give him free meals for a week.
Which as it happens is more than they will give us because they are
full. They park us in the garden for ten minutes where we feed the mosquitoes
until a table comes free. Between the 5 power cuts we have a good meal
costing 860 for 4 which is a big improvement on the 1700 for 2 we paid
last night.
We are rickshawed to the Taj and repeat most of yesterday's photographs.
You can put a rose on Mahal's tomb for the one you love. Standing by
the wall overlooking the river we see a procession approaching involving
a highly decorated elephant. It is one of Bollywood's 1000 a year films
in the making. We rick to the Red Fort and do that again. Karen and
Steve, jammy buggers have chosen the day when both are free. Several
Indians want their photo taken with Kaz. The rickshaws are expensive
especially when you consider that I had to get out and walk up the hills.
. Saleem will be displeased; he did not come this afternoon. Steve explains
the driver's persistence with us. By carrying locals they can make 5
annas, they can charge us 10 times that but that is chicken feed. If
they take us to a restaurant they get a meal, if they take us to a shop
they get a hand out, if we buy something really expensive they get commission.
We are walking lottery tickets. We lunch at S&K's Agra Inn on a
terrace overlooking a garden I find the food delicious. Perhaps it is
the company or euphoria about the end of the dihorrea. The manager is
perplexed. If we are really rich enough to stay at the Clark-Shiraz
we would not allow our children to stay at his hotel. If we can afford
to eat at the Clark-Shiraz why are we eating at his? We explain that
we like his food; it is more interesting and tastier than the C-S. He
walks away shaking his head. Karen shows us their room and I understand
his paradox. We lend them our mosquito net. Steve wants to visit a recommended
veggie restaurant called Zorba the Buddha. The put put driver says it
is closed. Our book says it is open. He tells us no tourists go there.
We tell him we are going there. He tells us the food is bad. He tells
us they don't sell alcohol. We realise they don't give free meals to
rickshaw drivers. He takes us. Zorbas is sparklingly clean and the food
very tasty. 640 for 4. A day of rest by the pool is cancelled due to
light rain and becomes a half day of rest in our room watching sky movies
and sport, reminiscing and dozing.
Steve has arranged a taxi to Fatehpur Sikri. Once again the journey
is fascinating. Lots of animals, lots of people sitting around, storks
in the fields. Fatehpur Sikri was built by Akbar a little earlier than
the Taj, mainly in sandstone. Akbar made a game try to unite the religions.
He took 4 wives, 2 Moslem 1 Hindu and 1 Christian. All 4 have separate
palaces. which are decorated with three out of four symbols. Moslem,
Hindu, Christian and Buddhist. Very laudable attempt doomed to failure
by too many vested interests. The palaces were extensive and worth suffering
the incessant peddling, they are desperate to turn over stock. 1 Knife
200 becomes 3 for 50 very quickly. We area very poor market. Lunch at
the Akbar is just as good as before; the chat is aimlessly pleasurable
before the cheapest meal yet at the Kwalite. 510 for 4.
He also played ludo with concubines. A marble screen is the finest we
have seen; people tie coloured threads to it and make a wish. A parrot
and an elephant have their own tombs. The elephant used to trample to
death unsuccessful appellants in the hall of public audiences. Here
symmetry is not the order. The palace of the winds is 5 storeys high
and built like a wedding cake. , each layer is decorated with different
style columns. We lunch on the terrace of the Akbar and dine for 500
at the Kwality.
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